Witness of courage and conquest

It is an entry into the heart of the past as one sets foot on Srirangapatnam.

GLIMPSES: Daria Daulat

Srirangapatnam is literally an island of serenity. The Cauvery flows by placidly and on a hot April day, you find only occasional vehicles honking their way past. You feel the island is having a well-deserved rest from the turmoil and conflict that converted its smooth stretches of land into a battle ground for centuries.

From the Ganga chieftains more than 1,000 years ago to the valiant Hyder Ali and the tiger hearted Tipu 800 years later — the town has seen courage and conquest, power wielded by the valiant patriot and the usurping outsider. It is a saga that never palls. The four entrances in the remains of the fort — constructed in the 15th century by the Hebbar descendant Thimmanna, a feudatory of the Vijayanagar king — allow you entry into the heart of the past. The taxi driver is unmoved by your enthusiasm; he has grown blasé, having made the trip too many times. But even he cannot fail to be impressed by the age of the Sri Ranganathaswami temple which was built by the Ganga chieftain Tirumalaiah in the 9th century A.D. Hyder was a great devotee of this Lord, you learn, and would pray to Him each time he embarked on war with the British. The temple came into the custody of the Wodeyars after the defeat of the Sultans.

Entrance to the fort.

The drive to Daria Daulat, the summer place of Tipu, takes you via the broken down Lal Mahal which is barred to visitors. A lone soldier guards this once-sprawling palace which was renowned for its splendour. It was reduced to ruins after the death of Tipu in 1799 in the Fourth Mysore War.

Simple tomb

A little ahead, a simple stone slab marks the place where the great warrior's body was found, more poignant by its very simplicity than richly decorated tombs. The Gunpowder House is worth a glimpse if only for the fact that it is located on the road named in honour of the clever strategist and advisor to Tipu — the legendary diwan, Poornaiyya.

The Gumbaz.

On entering the towering Masjid-E-Ala constructed by the Sultan, we are met by a Tamil speaking guide, remarkably courteous and sober despite being steeped in spirits. He points out the pigeonholes in the twin minarets and holds forth on the pigeon courier system of the past. The present winged inhabitants fly past while the faithful gather for prayer in the impressive mosque and we leave for the next stop. This of course is the chief attraction of all the tourist trips to Srirangapatnam.

The spot where Tipu's body was found.

The Daria Daulat ("the wealth of the sea") palace was built by Tipu in 1784 after his father's and his victory over Col. Bailee in the Second Mysore War. The structure (comprised mostly of teak) and set on a raised platform is a protected monument of the ASI.

A replica of the rocket fired by Tipu Sultan exhibited at the BrahMos Aerospace, New Delhi ,

The Assistant Superintending Archaeologist of the Tipu Sultan museum at the Daria Daulat Bagh, Nayakanda C. Prakash, tells you he is working on the sultan's genealogy: details about Tipu's family tree will be displayed soon here. The Palace is renowned for its beautiful paintings. The ASI exhibits include photographs and details pertaining to the Sultan's possessions now in the custody of museums abroad. Paintings, sketches and portraits of Tipu and his family members can be seen in the palace rooms on the ground floor that constitutes the museum. Of appeal to the numismatics lover are the various coins issued by Tipu at his numerous mints and the coins issued by the British to commemorate their victory over him.

But time is leapfrogging and we go off to visit the Nimishamba temple whose road is lined with rose gardens. A glimpse of the dungeon where Col.Bailee and others were imprisoned is followed by a visit to the Gumbaz, the impressive mausoleum where Hyder, his wife and Tipu's other relatives are interred.

Details.

The last stop is the most significant. ``When President Kalam went to NASA in the U.S.," a knowledgeable source informs us, "he saw a picture of Indians firing a rocket and came to know they were Tipu's men." We attempt to reach the top of a portion of the fort. For we learn that it was from this site that a sultan who prized his independence made a foray into a technology far ahead of his times.

Daria Daulat is renowned for its paintings
Tipu tried to fire a rocket
Hyder was a devotee of Sri Ranganathaswami

KAUSALYA SANTHANAM
the hindu Friday, May 04, 2007